Sunday, October 13, 2013

Palace of Versailles

    On Saturday my friends and I visited the Palace of Versailles, and although it was pretty cool, it was actually also a perfect example of why you shouldn't fall into tourist traps. Being one of the most famous historical sites in the Paris area, Versailles is of course a must-see. I will admit that if it had been one of my first experiences with French art and architecture, I would have been extremely impressed. And I will also admit that it is gorgeous and I think everyone should go if they get the chance, but my friends and I all agreed that in comparison to all the other more "hidden" treasures in Paris, Versailles might fall a bit flat. At its peak, the palace was home to literally thousands of nobles, courtesans, and workers. But after making our way through the packed rooms that were on display, you got the feeling that you were being ripped off. There's no way we got to see more than 10% of that castle (I looked it up afterwards - there are 2,300 rooms. But we made it through everything that was on display in probably about an hour). The rooms we did see were also generally quite grotesque; they crossed the line from being extravagantly beautiful to being gluttonously extravagant. Even if we did only see just a small fraction of the building, it's not difficult to understand why the French people would revolt against the kind of leadership that would create such a beautiful travesty. Anyway, I apologize for the negative rant - here are some pics!


I'd be willing to bet that this statue of the king (it's either Louis XIV, who was essentially responsible for building the palace you see today, or Louis XVI, who was the last monarch before the Revolution, i don't remember which) is not original. During the Revolution, the palace was repeatedly sacked, either by mobs or by the new government, who sold many pieces of art and government property to raise money and pay debts. 


 This was our first view of the front of the palace. It was surprisingly not that impressive, although we later discovered that is because the REAL view of the palace (aka the gorgeous one you see in pictures) is actually the back side, where the gardens are. 


 On each side of the main entrance, the palace is marked with the phrase "à toutes les gloires de la france" - to all the glories of France. This basically is a recognition of the fact that today the palace is supposed to be a physical representation of France's power, rather than a memory of the oppressive monarchy.


 Once we got inside the main gates, things started getting fancier by the minute. 


Everything in the interior courtyard is coated with gold.

First staircase into the castle.


This is the chapel, it's basically a full-sized church! Notice how it has its own organ??


These galleries seemed to be the main way to get around the castle. They're all lined with statues of famous French men - kings, writers, philosophers, etc. 


 These are just some random photos of some of the rooms, there's nothing really that notable about them (but they're pretty). 





 I really like how well I managed to capture this room. As well as the man in the corner. 


 Fancy artwork built into the salons!








These rooms with the red wallpaper were probably one of the most garish things I've seen in France so far. 






 Everyone always talks about the hall of mirrors, but I've never seen any pictures that really show off how amazing the ceiling is! Check it out. 


 Obligatory shot of the hall of mirrors. 



 This was the king's bedchamber.





 I can't help but wonder if these are actually gold, or if they're just replicas. Chances are that if anything got sold during the revolution, it would be giant, useless gold decorations. 


 This is the queen's bed; notice how much bigger and prettier it is than the king's.





 Fancy table setting.





 This room was actually pretty cool, it was full of portraits of famous French men. 


 This room finally got my attention - it was probably my favorite room in the whole palace. It's called the Gallery of Battles, and pretty much every single battle that France won in the last 800 years is depicted in its own giant painting. 


This is an example of one of the paintings - the Battle of Hohenlinden (I just picked a random one that didn't happen to have 20 people standing in front of it, check out the sign with the name and date below).



Finally, the gardens! They're of course in the traditional French style, which means they're huge and very well-manicured. 



They're also full of artwork! The current exhibit had a bunch of huge marble slabs with trees carved into them. It's a little bit difficult to see, but the artist generally tried to carve along with the veins that already existed in the marble. If you look closely, you can see that the bottom of the tree trunk in this one is really growing out of a darker vein in the stone. 


 The paths were huge and gorgeous, we probably spent more time walking in the gardens than we did in the actual palace. 





 After wandering through the gardens for a while we finally made it to the Petit Trianon, which was a relatively long walk away. Basically it's just a small mansion where Marie Antoinette used to love living in when she wanted to get away from all the "stress" of court life. 

Some of her tableware. 


View of the courtyard from inside the house, you can see how much plainer it is. 


Well, except for the golden staircase.


 And the chandelier. 


 Also I don't exactly have a harp in my living room either. 


 The bed is much smaller than the one in Versailles though!


This was the livery that her servants wore. 


Finally, the fountains! They actually are turned off most of the time, but we happened to be there during the short period when they turned them on just to show off. This is the famous Neptune fountain. 


 A closer view. 


Image of the palace from the backside, it's much prettier in my opinion.


And that's about it! It was a good afternoon overall, despite being a little bit of a letdown. I do have to say that my favorite places in Paris so far are generally the places that DON'T have a million people crowding around, so maybe my problem with Versailles was really just a factor of my dislike of crowds. Either way, it wasn't a bad day at all.

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